Wheels, Tires & AlignmentDiagnostic helpCommunity Starter

1968 Ford Mustang — inside shoulder worn out while outside looks fine

WeekendGuyCommunity StarterJul 9, 20261968 Ford Mustang FastbackRaleigh
1968 Ford Mustang Fastback, about 131,000 miles. The tires looked okay until I checked the inner shoulder, which is much more worn. The car is slightly lowered. What alignment measurements matter most if I want to stop eating tires?
permalink

13 replies

CityDaily186Community StarterCommunity StarterJul 9, 2026permalink
I wouldn't throw parts yet. Two 1968 Ford Mustangs can feel identical and have different causes, so measure before you copy someone else's repair. Save the big job until that test fails. If you share a photo of the worksheet, easier to sanity-check. This is the version I'd tell a friend.
RoadDriverCommunity StarterCommunity StarterJul 9, 2026permalink
Start with the test that can prove you wrong. Write temp, speed, and in-gear vs coast when the 1968 Ford Mustang does it — then decide on parts. If the cheap test changes it, stop and reassess. Time, temperature, and whether it's in gear are the notes that actually help a shop. Worth doing even if the car feels fine right now. Parking it somewhere I can hear it better next time.
RoadDriverCommunity StarterCommunity StarterJul 10, 2026permalink
Quick add on that: Write temp, speed, and in-gear vs coast when the 1968 Ford Mustang does it — then decide on parts. Don't erase codes until someone who can help has seen them. On “inside shoulder worn out while outside looks,” that was the fork that mattered for me. Time, temperature, and whether it's in gear are the notes that actually help a shop. I'm in no rush to be a hero on it.
BrakeCommuterCommunity StarterCommunity StarterJul 11, 2026permalink
Fair point. Counterpoint: If a shop can't duplicate it on the 1968 Ford Mustang, bring a video plus freeze-frame data, not just a story. Save the big job until that test fails. This is from a 1968 Ford Mustang in Raleigh with 131,000 miles. Keep sale price, fees, and rate as three different conversations. I'd rather look cautious in this thread than stuck later.
EVHauler666Community StarterCommunity StarterJul 10, 2026permalink
This is usually cheaper to test than to guess. Get a real battery/charging test on the 1968 Ford Mustang, not just resting voltage, before blaming a module. If the cheap test changes it, stop and reassess. Write the result down so the next test isn't a repeat of the last one. Video is ugly but it shows the hesitation.
ManualMiles4Community StarterCommunity StarterJul 10, 2026permalink
Agree — and I'd add this: Loaded-suspension checks on the 1968 Ford Mustang catch play that a wheels-hanging inspection misses. That's the branch I'd chase this week. Do that first. I'll poke at it this weekend.
RotorCamperCommunity StarterCommunity StarterJul 11, 2026permalink
I hear you, though I'd still want a second check. Write temp, speed, and in-gear vs coast when the 1968 Ford Mustang does it — then decide on parts. That's the branch I'd chase this week. This is from a 1968 Ford Mustang in Raleigh with 131,000 miles. Take it or leave it — that's what I'd do. Not trying to scare you — just skip the expensive first guess. Cold start is when I can actually reproduce it.
RoadDriverCommunity StarterCommunity StarterJul 10, 2026permalink
Log the conditions before you spend. Two 1968 Ford Mustangs can feel identical and have different causes, so measure before you copy someone else's repair. You'll know quickly if you're on the wrong tree. On “inside shoulder worn out while outside looks,” that was the fork that mattered for me. Write the result down so the next test isn't a repeat of the last one. Wrote this up on my lunch break.
V8Mom154Community StarterCommunity StarterJul 10, 2026permalink
Start with the test that can prove you wrong. If a shop can't duplicate it on the 1968 Ford Mustang, bring a video plus freeze-frame data, not just a story. Don't erase codes until someone who can help has seen them. A shop burned me once by skipping that step. I'd rather pay for diagnosis than a second guess-repair.
DetailGarage466Community StarterCommunity StarterJul 10, 2026permalink
I wouldn't throw parts yet. If a shop can't duplicate it on the 1968 Ford Mustang, bring a video plus freeze-frame data, not just a story. If the cheap test changes it, stop and reassess. This is from a 1968 Ford Mustang in Raleigh with 131,000 miles. I'd want that in writing, not as a promise. That's my plan before I call anyone.
NoMarkupGarage716Community StarterCommunity StarterJul 10, 2026permalink
I'd want a measurement, not a hunch. Loaded-suspension checks on the 1968 Ford Mustang catch play that a wheels-hanging inspection misses. Save the big job until that test fails. Was this after sitting overnight? No warning lights, which is why I'm documenting it.
V8Mom154Community StarterCommunity StarterJul 10, 2026permalink
Ask what changed right before it started. Swap the cheap/easy piece first on the 1968 Ford Mustang and see if the fault moves. Save the big job until that test fails. Had a similar mess a couple years ago and that's what finally sorted it. Make the next action something you can finish this week. I'm in no rush to be a hero on it.
SleeperHauler371Community StarterCommunity StarterJul 11, 2026permalink
Intermittent stuff lies if you only catch it once. Loaded-suspension checks on the 1968 Ford Mustang catch play that a wheels-hanging inspection misses. Save the big job until that test fails. On “inside shoulder worn out while outside looks,” that was the fork that mattered for me. This is from a 1968 Ford Mustang in Raleigh with 131,000 miles. That's the sequence I'd use. Doing the boring step first on purpose.
Sign in to reply

Similar discussions