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2013 Infiniti G37 — 120k one-owner car versus 70k with thin history

V8Builder435Community StarterMay 25, 20262013 Infiniti G37 xSChicago
The higher-mileage car has detailed records and consistent ownership; the lower-mileage example has sparse history. If both inspect well, how much weight do you put on maintenance history versus odometer? If I figure it out I will update the thread. What would you check next?
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19 replies

TorqueBuyer457Community StarterCommunity StarterMay 25, 2026permalink
I would not stare at the monthly. I would not wire money until I've seen the 2013 Infiniti G37 and the title situation in person or via a trusted PPI. Screenshot the worksheet if you can. Just my two cents from doing this recently. Make the next action something you can finish this week. Calling insurance in the morning before I reply to the desk.
V8Builder435Community StarterCommunity StarterMay 25, 2026permalink
Quick update: a second 2013 Infiniti G37 quote made the first offer look ordinary. That's my plan before I call anyone.
BoostScoutCommunity StarterCommunity StarterMay 26, 2026permalink
If I were shopping this, if they're pushing term length to shrink the payment, the 2013 Infiniti G37 price probably got worse. That's the part that actually changes the decision. Had a similar mess a couple years ago and that's what finally sorted it. Doc fee is the line I'm watching.
EVLearner141Community StarterCommunity StarterMay 26, 2026permalink
If I were shopping this, if one piece looks too good on the 2013 Infiniti G37, hunt doc fees, accessories, and the APR next. Then the comparison gets honest. Run the total, not the monthly, before you commit. I've seen both outcomes, which is why I'd test instead of assume. Doc fee is the line I'm watching.
DealTraveler643Community StarterCommunity StarterMay 27, 2026permalink
Quick add on that: A written buyer’s order on the 2013 Infiniti G37 is worth more than any verbal “we’ll make it work.” If they balk, that's your answer. On “120k one-owner car versus 70k with thin,” that was the fork that mattered for me. Do that first. Climate here is different, so treat that as a local data point. I screenshotted the quote for later.
EVLearner141Community StarterCommunity StarterMay 27, 2026permalink
Same neighborhood, different next step: Call your insurer in Chicago before you fall in love with the 2013 Infiniti G37. Do that before you talk monthly again. On “120k one-owner car versus 70k with thin,” that was the fork that mattered for me. This is from a 2013 Infiniti G37 in Chicago. I'd want a dollar figure or a measured spec, not 'should be fine.' If your situation is the opposite, ignore me. I'd rather look cautious in this thread than stuck later.
SunBeltGarage401Community StarterCommunity StarterMay 26, 2026permalink
Compare apples to apples or you'll get spun. Call your insurer in Chicago before you fall in love with the 2013 Infiniti G37. Do that before you talk monthly again. Take it or leave it — that's what I'd do. Going to re-read the worksheet tonight.
BoostGal550Community StarterCommunity StarterMay 26, 2026permalink
Treat this like a math problem, not a vibe. Keep sale price, trade, and financing split on the 2013 Infiniti G37 so a “good payment” cannot bury a worse deal. Do that before you talk monthly again. I'd want a dollar figure or a measured spec, not 'should be fine.' Going to re-read the worksheet tonight.
ShopDad260Community StarterCommunity StarterMay 26, 2026permalink
Don't send a deposit on a phone quote. In Chicago, insurance quotes flipped a 2013 Infiniti G37 comparison for me more than the sale price did. That's the part that actually changes the decision. Write the result down so the next test isn't a repeat of the last one. I'm in no rush to be a hero on it.
RustBeltGarage568Community StarterCommunity StarterMay 26, 2026permalink
If I were shopping this, in Chicago, insurance quotes flipped a 2013 Infiniti G37 comparison for me more than the sale price did. Screenshot the worksheet if you can. Happy to compare notes if your setup is different. Worth doing even if the car feels fine right now. This is me being the wet blanket on purpose.
EVLearner141Community StarterCommunity StarterMay 26, 2026permalink
I'd slow the salesperson down here. I would not wire money until I've seen the 2013 Infiniti G37 and the title situation in person or via a trusted PPI. That's the part that actually changes the decision. This is from a 2013 Infiniti G37 in Chicago. If it doesn't change the out-the-door or the repair estimate, it's noise. Make the next action something you can finish this week. Not wiring anything in the meantime.
ShopDad260Community StarterCommunity StarterMay 26, 2026permalink
Insurance and tax belong in the comparison, not as a surprise. Ask for out-the-door on the 2013 Infiniti G37 with fees, add-ons, and rate on separate lines. Do that before you talk monthly again. On “120k one-owner car versus 70k with thin,” that was the fork that mattered for me. This is from a 2013 Infiniti G37 in Chicago. Keep sale price, fees, and rate as three different conversations. That's my plan before I call anyone.
UsedCarMilesCommunity StarterCommunity StarterMay 26, 2026permalink
Walk if they won't put it on a buyer’s order. In Chicago, insurance quotes flipped a 2013 Infiniti G37 comparison for me more than the sale price did. Then the comparison gets honest. No need to make it theatrical. Not letting add-ons ride along because everyone does.
RustBeltGarage568Community StarterCommunity StarterMay 26, 2026permalink
Walk if they won't put it on a buyer’s order. If one piece looks too good on the 2013 Infiniti G37, hunt doc fees, accessories, and the APR next. That's the part that actually changes the decision. If you share a photo of the worksheet, easier to sanity-check. I've seen both outcomes, which is why I'd test instead of assume. Doing the boring step first on purpose.
ShiftDIYerCommunity StarterCommunity StarterMay 26, 2026permalink
I'd want competing paper, not competing stories. Keep sale price, trade, and financing split on the 2013 Infiniti G37 so a “good payment” cannot bury a worse deal. If they balk, that's your answer. This is from a 2013 Infiniti G37 in Chicago. Write the result down so the next test isn't a repeat of the last one. Might be overthinking it, but I'd rather overthink than overspend.
FlatSixDad488Community StarterCommunity StarterMay 26, 2026permalink
Compare apples to apples or you'll get spun. Keep sale price, trade, and financing split on the 2013 Infiniti G37 so a “good payment” cannot bury a worse deal. I'd rather lose the car than buy a foggy deal. If they can't show the line item, I assume it's hiding. Not trying to scare you — just skip the expensive first guess. Sleeping on the number either way.
CamberGarage964Community StarterCommunity StarterMay 27, 2026permalink
Treat this like a math problem, not a vibe. Call your insurer in Chicago before you fall in love with the 2013 Infiniti G37. I'd rather lose the car than buy a foggy deal. When does it actually happen? PPI guy I use is booked until next week, so I'm waiting.
BoostGal550Community StarterCommunity StarterMay 27, 2026permalink
I'd slow the salesperson down here. In Chicago, insurance quotes flipped a 2013 Infiniti G37 comparison for me more than the sale price did. Screenshot the worksheet if you can. If it doesn't change the out-the-door or the repair estimate, it's noise. I'm in no rush to be a hero on it.
RustBeltGarage568Community StarterCommunity StarterMay 27, 2026permalink
I would not stare at the monthly. Two 2013 Infiniti G37 quotes only help if both include tax, title, and the same options. Then the comparison gets honest. Post the numbers (or the code) and people can get more specific. Calling insurance in the morning before I reply to the desk.
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