1968 Ford Mustang — battery dies after the car sits for a weekend

Low-voltage gremlins will strand you even with a full pack. Try a second charger before blaming the 1968 Ford Mustang — site sharing and pack temp change the curve a lot. That's where I'd start. This is from a 1968 Ford Mustang in Philadelphia. If they can't show the line item, I assume it's hiding. Worth doing even if the car feels fine right now. No warning lights, which is why I'm documenting it.

Don't clear the alert just to make the screen pretty. Leave the alerts on the 1968 Ford Mustang so service can see what you saw. I'd do that before spending real money. Any freeze-frame data saved? I'd sleep better after that step, even if it finds nothing. Might be overthinking it, but I'd rather overthink than overspend.

Don't clear the alert just to make the screen pretty. Leave the alerts on the 1968 Ford Mustang so service can see what you saw. That's where I'd start. That's the sequence I'd use. This is the version I'd tell a friend.

Charge curves lie if you don't match starting SOC and temp. Match starting SOC and battery temp if you're comparing 1968 Ford Mustang charge sessions. That's where I'd start. Happy to compare notes if your setup is different. If this is nothing, great. I want that in data.

I'd treat 12V warnings as a no-ignore. On the 1968 Ford Mustang, I'd get the 12V/DC-DC side checked even if the traction pack looks fine. Then you'll know the next fork. On “battery dies after the car sits for,” that was the fork that mattered for me. That's the sequence I'd use. If that fails I'll eat the diagnostic fee.