2017 Audi Q7 — clunk when changing from reverse to drive

Log the conditions before you spend. Move a coil or plug on the 2017 Audi Q7 if it's cylinder-specific and see whether the code follows. Save the big job until that test fails. On “clunk when changing from reverse to drive,” that was the fork that mattered for me. I'd want a dollar figure or a measured spec, not 'should be fine.' I'm in no rush to be a hero on it.

I wouldn't throw parts yet. Get a real battery/charging test on the 2017 Audi Q7, not just resting voltage, before blaming a module. You'll know quickly if you're on the wrong tree. No need to make it theatrical. Worth doing even if the car feels fine right now. This is me being the wet blanket on purpose.

I wouldn't throw parts yet. Write temp, speed, and in-gear vs coast when the 2017 Audi Q7 does it — then decide on parts. Save the big job until that test fails. Post the numbers (or the code) and people can get more specific. Cold start is when I can actually reproduce it.

Ask what changed right before it started. A pressure test beats staring at a dry driveway if the 2017 Audi Q7 is losing coolant with no puddle. Don't erase codes until someone who can help has seen them. I'd want that in writing, not as a promise. Make the next action something you can finish this week. Heat soak after errands is the other window.

Start with the test that can prove you wrong. Write temp, speed, and in-gear vs coast when the 2017 Audi Q7 does it — then decide on parts. Save the big job until that test fails. Keep sale price, fees, and rate as three different conversations. I've seen both outcomes, which is why I'd test instead of assume. I'll update if anything new shows up.

OP update: scanned the 2017 Audi Q7 again and still only have the one pending code, no new lights. Parking it somewhere I can hear it better next time.

If it were in my driveway, if a shop can't duplicate it on the 2017 Audi Q7, bring a video plus freeze-frame data, not just a story. Don't erase codes until someone who can help has seen them. This is from a 2017 Audi Q7 in Bay Area with 138,000 miles. That's the sequence I'd use. Video is ugly but it shows the hesitation.

Tried a second charger / second scan and the story on the 2017 Audi Q7 didn't change. Happens in gear, not in park, for what that's worth.

It did clunk when changing from reverse to drive twice this week, both times after sitting. No change in mileage feel. Parking it somewhere I can hear it better next time.

Ask what changed right before it started. Write temp, speed, and in-gear vs coast when the 2017 Audi Q7 does it — then decide on parts. Save the big job until that test fails. No need to make it theatrical. This is the version I'd tell a friend.

Log the conditions before you spend. Two 2017 Audi Q7s can feel identical and have different causes, so measure before you copy someone else's repair. You'll know quickly if you're on the wrong tree. On “clunk when changing from reverse to drive,” that was the fork that mattered for me. That's the sequence I'd use. Trying not to diagnose from the couch.

This is usually cheaper to test than to guess. Loaded-suspension checks on the 2017 Audi Q7 catch play that a wheels-hanging inspection misses. You'll know quickly if you're on the wrong tree. Have you gotten a second quote in writing? This is me being the wet blanket on purpose.

Intermittent stuff lies if you only catch it once. Capture voltage while the 2017 Audi Q7 is actually failing — after it restarts you've lost the clue. If the cheap test changes it, stop and reassess. On “clunk when changing from reverse to drive,” that was the fork that mattered for me. Write the result down so the next test isn't a repeat of the last one. Video is ugly but it shows the hesitation.

Start with the test that can prove you wrong. Two 2017 Audi Q7s can feel identical and have different causes, so measure before you copy someone else's repair. Don't erase codes until someone who can help has seen them. Post the numbers (or the code) and people can get more specific. Not driving it hard until I know more.

If it were in my driveway, get a real battery/charging test on the 2017 Audi Q7, not just resting voltage, before blaming a module. If the cheap test changes it, stop and reassess. Just my two cents from doing this recently. I'd sleep better after that step, even if it finds nothing. I'd rather pay for diagnosis than a second guess-repair.

It did clunk when changing from reverse to drive twice this week, both times after sitting. No change in mileage feel. I refuse to clear codes until someone else sees them.

Log the conditions before you spend. Move a coil or plug on the 2017 Audi Q7 if it's cylinder-specific and see whether the code follows. If the cheap test changes it, stop and reassess. On “clunk when changing from reverse to drive,” that was the fork that mattered for me. If it doesn't change the out-the-door or the repair estimate, it's noise. Checking again after work.

If it were in my driveway, move a coil or plug on the 2017 Audi Q7 if it's cylinder-specific and see whether the code follows. That's the branch I'd chase this week. Do that first. I'd rather be boring and correct. If this is nothing, great. I want that in data.

I'd want a measurement, not a hunch. Loaded-suspension checks on the 2017 Audi Q7 catch play that a wheels-hanging inspection misses. Don't erase codes until someone who can help has seen them. Did the worksheet show tax yet? If that fails I'll eat the diagnostic fee.

Intermittent stuff lies if you only catch it once. Get a real battery/charging test on the 2017 Audi Q7, not just resting voltage, before blaming a module. Don't erase codes until someone who can help has seen them. On “clunk when changing from reverse to drive,” that was the fork that mattered for me. Time, temperature, and whether it's in gear are the notes that actually help a shop. If your situation is the opposite, ignore me. I keep a notes app thread for this now.

OP update: scanned the 2017 Audi Q7 again and still only have the one pending code, no new lights. Video is ugly but it shows the hesitation.

Ask what changed right before it started. Capture voltage while the 2017 Audi Q7 is actually failing — after it restarts you've lost the clue. That's the branch I'd chase this week. Run the total, not the monthly, before you commit. That's coming from doing this as an owner, not a shop. This is me being the wet blanket on purpose.

Intermittent stuff lies if you only catch it once. Move a coil or plug on the 2017 Audi Q7 if it's cylinder-specific and see whether the code follows. You'll know quickly if you're on the wrong tree. On “clunk when changing from reverse to drive,” that was the fork that mattered for me. Take it or leave it — that's what I'd do. If your situation is the opposite, ignore me. Only after sitting overnight so far.

I wouldn't throw parts yet. Write temp, speed, and in-gear vs coast when the 2017 Audi Q7 does it — then decide on parts. Don't erase codes until someone who can help has seen them. I'd want a dollar figure or a measured spec, not 'should be fine.' Worth doing even if the car feels fine right now. No warning lights, which is why I'm documenting it.

Intermittent stuff lies if you only catch it once. If a shop can't duplicate it on the 2017 Audi Q7, bring a video plus freeze-frame data, not just a story. If the cheap test changes it, stop and reassess. On “clunk when changing from reverse to drive,” that was the fork that mattered for me. That's the sequence I'd use. I'd rather pay for diagnosis than a second guess-repair.

I wouldn't throw parts yet. Get a real battery/charging test on the 2017 Audi Q7, not just resting voltage, before blaming a module. Don't erase codes until someone who can help has seen them. This is from a 2017 Audi Q7 in Bay Area with 138,000 miles. Post the numbers (or the code) and people can get more specific. Your commute and mine probably aren't the same, but the test still applies. That's my plan before I call anyone.