1987 Porsche 911 — light-throttle shudder around 35–45 mph

Start with the test that can prove you wrong. If a shop can't duplicate it on the 1987 Porsche 911, bring a video plus freeze-frame data, not just a story. You'll know quickly if you're on the wrong tree. Keep sale price, fees, and rate as three different conversations. I've seen both outcomes, which is why I'd test instead of assume. If it repeats twice more I'll book time.

Intermittent stuff lies if you only catch it once. Get a real battery/charging test on the 1987 Porsche 911, not just resting voltage, before blaming a module. You'll know quickly if you're on the wrong tree. On “light-throttle shudder around 35–45 mph,” that was the fork that mattered for me. I'd want that in writing, not as a promise. Happens in gear, not in park, for what that's worth.

I wouldn't throw parts yet. A pressure test beats staring at a dry driveway if the 1987 Porsche 911 is losing coolant with no puddle. Don't erase codes until someone who can help has seen them. Time, temperature, and whether it's in gear are the notes that actually help a shop. Worth doing even if the car feels fine right now. Heat soak after errands is the other window.

I'd want a measurement, not a hunch. Two 1987 Porsche 911s can feel identical and have different causes, so measure before you copy someone else's repair. You'll know quickly if you're on the wrong tree. Happy to compare notes if your setup is different. I'd rather pay for diagnosis than a second guess-repair.

Log the conditions before you spend. Loaded-suspension checks on the 1987 Porsche 911 catch play that a wheels-hanging inspection misses. If the cheap test changes it, stop and reassess. On “light-throttle shudder around 35–45 mph,” that was the fork that mattered for me. Run the total, not the monthly, before you commit. I'm in no rush to be a hero on it.